By Janis Prince Inniss

When my aunt expressed mock horror—I think it was mock—at the thought of me going to Mexico because Canadian tourists had been killed there, I chided her. She’s alarmist, giving into negative portrayals and stereotypes of the country and its people, I thought.

I have changed my mind: She was right! My change of mind and heart is based on the volume of militarized police all over the town of Tulum—many carrying weapons the size of a small person! The experience led me to several sociological questions about what such a show of force means. For one friend, the heavy police presence represents safety. I wonder how much of the police presence is meant to reassure the omnipresent tourists that they are safe, and encourage them to keep coming back for more sand, sun, and fun in Mexico. The question I could not avoid though is why there is a need for this many police.

I first noted the heavy police presence on the hour and a half drive (about 80 miles) from Cancun to Tulum along a four-lane
highway. Along the way there were several police checkpoints. Sometimes, the checkpoints included a small building in the middle of the highway, but each time there were numerous armed police, such as at this one.

For the entire trip, I was afraid to let the police see me taking pictures of them so I did so surreptitiously—not the way to get the best shots, as you will see.

Tulum is a tiny town with one main street running through it that takes you to the all-important beach and tourist area.  Although there are some paved offshoots of this road, Coba Avenue, many remain unpaved.

I learned this as I walked downtown, and Google maps kept sending me along these “roads.” On Coba Avenue, in the middle of town at around 2 pm, I was startled to see an open back truck filled with gun-toting Guardia Nacional.

I learned that the Guardia Nacional or National Guard, in English, was formed in  2019 and its members are mainly from the country’s army and navy. It is commanded by retired military officers. The National Guard replaced the disbanded Federal Police.

I am not surprised to learn that the Guardia Nacional number 120,000 because in my four day visit, it seemed I saw that many or more. Mexican police have not been able to handle drug cartels and violent crimes the country faces; the National Guard was to be a civilian force able to handle these challenges. Mexican President López Obrador has given this force the responsibility to run its ports, airports and many other outfits; in September 2024, he put the National Guard under military command.
On my second day in Tulum, I tried to drive to its famed ruins, only to be stopped by the Guardia Nacional. My Spanish is not good enough to know why, if an explanation was given—but isn’t that a simple enough job for a traffic police officer, for example? When I got closer to the ruins by the directions I received, dozens more National Guards were waiting, and one gave further directions to the ruins.

On my last day in Tulum, I finally made it to the ruins in the Tulum Archaeological Zone. A couple of the National Guard were visible at the ticketing area, including one who couldn’t seem to take his hand off the gun on his waist.

As we departed for the 5-minute drive to the actual ruins, there they were again.

On the way back, there were lots more—this time in riot gear.

I had a lovely visit to Tulum. The beaches are divine, the people gracious, and the food delicious. The sight of the National Guard unnerved me though.

And it left me with some questions: Are the National Guard being used to control the country’s violence—simply enforcing its laws and/or to suppress potential social unrest? What are the social problems that create the problems that might necessitate this much policing? And is this a way of treating the symptoms of problems that remain untouched?

Is this much police visibility a source of deterrence? In other words, does the high visibility of the National Guard inhibit criminal behavior and act as a form of social control simply by having them everywhere?

Is this a source of intimidation by the state and does it/could it violate human rights as some worry? After all, police and soldiers are trained differently, with soldiers usually engaging with foreign enemies who cannot lay claim to the same rights as citizens. What is a good balance between the need to create public safety and the right to individual freedom? And is Mexico’s peace inextricably tied to military control?

How does the presence of the National Guard influence how people move around Mexico and how people experience the county? Mexico’s homicide rate has been increasing for the past decade but its violence is concentrated in areas outside of those popular with tourists—including the area of my visit—Yucatán which has a 3.3 per 100,000 people rate—much less than the 7.5 of the U.S. Why then, so much of the National Guard presence in Tulum?

What are the power dynamics at work: Are those with the least power (for example the poorest citizens, women and children) at risk for persecution? Also related to power dynamics, is the police presence and constant surveillance meant to serve as a visible demonstration of the state’s power? What do you think? Share your thoughts in the comments below.

Photos courtesy of the author